Priming a Custom

 Between preparing and priming

 Before you start priming or even painting the piece, there are a couple of things you may want to do or have to do.

If you are going to do sculpting (not sure if I am going to cover that topic since i haven’t done any yet),  get that done before priming.

You should also tape off anything you don’t want primed/painted.  This normally is only the nubs of the arms, the neck, and maybe sticking something in the body’ arm holes.  You do this so that layers of primer, paint, and later sealant don’t build up and make it so you can not put the pieces back together again.

THe last thing is to make it so you can paint items and leave them to dry without having to touch the piece or set it down and risk ruining the pain or primer you just applied.  For dunnies, I use three things.  I use toothpicks for the arms, bamboo forks for the boy, and a wooden dowel for the head.  In order for the toothpicks to work in holding the dunny arms, I use a pin vise to drill a little hole in the flat of the arm nub and stick the tip of the toothpick in.  In needed a little tape can be used to better secure the arm and toothpick.

Bammboo Forks

 Priming and Primers

 I am a fan of using primer, but I haven’t always had the best result with some.  The two primers I use the most are Krylon’s indoor/outdoor sandable primer and Rust-Oleum sandable automotive primer.  I stay away from Krylon Fusion for Plastics.  In theory, it sounds like a good idea, but through my experience, and those of others, I have found that it tends to stay tacky and never completely dry.  From my reading online, it work well on hard plastics, but can react to soft plastic or vinyl and that isn’t something you want.

 I suggest wearing gloves, ear protection and a mask when priming or doing anything that puts paint particles int eh air like air brushing.  I also do this in a well ventilated area or out side.  You want to apply thin coats (you should still be able to see the color of the piece after the first coat.  How the spray can 12-14 inches away and apply in a sweeping motion.  Once you have the piece coats, set it someplace to dry and let is finish drying before you apply another coat.  It should take two or three coats of primer to get the piece completely covered.

If you are using sandable primer, you can lightly sand between coats if you need to.  Sometimes the primer will spurt out and you won’t get a very smooth coat.  Just make sure the primer is completely dry before sanding.  When you are done sanding, wipe the piece off with a damp cloth to remove any dust the will prevent the next coat of primer or your paint from sticking.

Once the piece(s) are primed and dry, you are ready to starting painting.

NOTE: In the Contents menu, there is a link for Necro Monkey’s Amazon Store.  There you will find the majority of items that I mention in these customizing how to’s.  While a lot of this stuff can be found at various local stores, you may find it easier to just order through Amazon.  I will admit that buying stuff this way has the potential to earn me a little from Amazon, but if you are going to order anyways why not benefit both of us.

 

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Preparing for Customization

The first step in customizing a figure, toy, etc is to get the piece prepared.  There are various steps for this and they depend on whether you are using a new DIY piece or a production piece.  Another thing to consider is if you are going to try and paint over an existing production piece or strip the existing paint.

Taking it apart

The first task in preparing a piece is typically taking the piece apart.  Pieces from Kidrobot normally consist of a head, body, and two arms.  I find it easier to separate the parts and work on them separately and then put it together after everything has been paint.

The DIY piece such as a munny, bub, tricky, etc are made with you customizing them in mind.  Taking these apart is simple as the head and arms simply pull off the body.

Production pieces like dunnies take a little more care.  My suggestion is to soak the piece in very hot water until the vinyl gets soft.  This makes it easier to pull the arms and head off.  Take care because the vinyl can rip, especially around the neck.  If you are having trouble, just soak the piece in hot water longer.  Sooner or later, it will come apart. Continue reading

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The Mob (0026)

I didn’t know what to think.  He screamed in pain until he was hoarse, but that didn’t stop the mob.  Flesh torn and bones snapped and broke as he was ripped to pieces.  Whether it was shock or blood loss that killed him didn’t matter, it was not a pretty death.  Someone skewered his head on an old broom and propped it up in the middle of the office for all to see.  It was obvious they were making an example of his death.

I addressed my blood, crazed coworkers, “What did he do?”

“He scheduled a mandatory meeting during lunch.”

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Lost Warriors

After several months, between work, school, and the wife, I finally finished my Lost Warrior dunnies which mixed Huck Gee’s zombie and samurai. 

Lost Warriors

I made 9 of these and plan on selling 8 of them.  Going to do them blindbox, but still trying to figure out the price.  I am thinking $40-45 shipped.  Want to see if there is interest first.

I am obsessed with making stuff react to blacklight or GID and I included that with these.  Not only do the eyes and mouth react to blacklight, but so does the blood splatter.  They are also numbered, in kanji, on the back of the head and that reacts as well.

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Space Kook and Shortz

Since my last post, I have maybe two more customs.  These used 3″ dunnies for the base.

The first was the Space Kook from the old Scooby-Doo cartoons.  The skull I bought online and cast resin.  The clear head came from a Rainy Day Triclops form the Ye Olde English series that I have to strip the pain off and them repolish.  Though the eyes and the backing behind the head look black, it is actually a mixture of black and fluorescent orange paint.  This causes the eyes to glow orange in the blacklight.  The body paint was mixed with glow-in-the-dark-paint, but the effect did not turn out right.

 

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